This is often referred to as trigger pull, but is really the same thing. "Control" is much more accurate, especially since, in the maintenance realm, "pull" refers to the pull-weight of the trigger (i.e. how many pounds of pressure are required to successfully actuate the trigger). Anyway, that aside, trigger control comes up as number two in the big boys of firearm fundamentals. After all, and building on the previous sight alignment and sight picture topic, a good sight picture won't do anything to help bad trigger control. Trigger Control = the ability to actuate the trigger in such a manner as to maintain a perfect sight picture and sight alignment.

The best place to start is how to place your finger on the trigger, and what amount of finger to use. This is a debated issue around many shooter's campfires. Some feel that the finger tip is ideal, while others prefer the first joint and still others say somewhere in between. Well, they're all right - but they're also all wrong. Don't misunderstand, I am not crawling out of the wood-work with some enlightened epiphany on the matter, but the facts are the facts. There is not a single decent to amazing shooter, when their opinion is held at bay for a moment, who would argue one simple fact: consistency. How they choose to mount their trigger is comfortable for them, but none can deny that it truly doesn't matter as long as the shooter can do it the same time, every time, i.e. consistently. However, it is also important to note, that some positions of your finger on the trigger are more conducive to better control - sad to say, those are also the facts. Joe Bob might be a 2500+ bullseye shooter who just happens to have the worst logical finger placement in the universe - but guess what? It works for him - but it might not work for a beginner.

When teaching new shooters, we ALWAYS start with the 'half-way-between-the-tip-and-the-joint' method of what part of the finger to use. The reason for that is because it is the most reliable position for actuating the trigger, of any firearm, directly to the rear. A straight back method of control will ensure the sight alignment is maintained as the shot breaks, whereas too much finger (over the joint) or too little finger (too much finger tip) can throw the alignment of the sights to the right or left, thus effecting the bullet's point of impact. So, we have a starting point for beginners - but in the pro's you'll see that and everything in between; why? Because they found what was comfortable and they are consistent.

With a set placement of the finger, the shooter then attempts to pull the trigger directly to the rear in a smooth, deliberate motion. Sounds simple, doesn't it? Well, in theory, it is - but in practice, it's one of the hardest fundamentals to master. The perfect trigger control rivals anything else that a shooter might deem important for the perfect shot because it is integral to where the bullet will impact the target, if at all. I've seen people MISS a man-size target at 7 meters (about 20 feet) because of bad trigger control.

The main issues with trigger control are:

Stuttering - this is when a person begins the rearward movement of the trigger, but slightly pauses the movement of the trigger, several times before the shot actually breaks.

Jerking - this is when a shooter bypasses any idea of "smooth" and actually yanks the trigger to the rear (extremely common).

Slapping - full placement of the finger on the trigger is not properly achieved before the rearward pull has begun, this is usually combined with jerking.

Throwing - similar to slapping, but occurs upon the breaking of the shot. It is a 'throwing' of the finger off of the trigger - though the shot has broken, this is still a fundamental no-no.

When addressing situations like stuttering or jerking, it is important to try and relay the intent of controlling the trigger and what it should be like. With the exception of race-car drivers and the ignorant, no one really "slams" a gas pedal when driving. Instead, their foot is placed upon the pedal and they ease into acceleration. Even when attempting to abruptly pass another car, we would assume that the pedal is being slammed, but in reality it is merely a faster form of the same "control". So, imparting that to a student and trying to associate it with their finger and the trigger can often work. There are many other analogies, but in the end, this is what should happen:

Place the finger comfortably on the trigger.

Ensure sight alignment and picture are maintained as the trigger is gently pulled straight to the rear.

The pull should be straight back and smooth. A shooter should not stop the pull of the trigger once it has begun. If sight alignment needs adjustment, that is something that is learned with practice because any correction should be done while the trigger continues to move.

Let the shot break.

Once the weapon has actuated completely, allow the spring tension of the trigger to push the trigger finger forward again until it comes to the resting position from where it started.

It is very hard to describe the perfect trigger control with words, but many use the term "squeeze" to associate the movement and union of the two entities, and it's probably the most accurate. Nevertheless, you now have a better understanding of trigger control.