Protecting Your Roses
- Date: 2007-01-23 - Word Count: 796
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You need to consider three elements in order to protect your roses. First, you need to retain the moisture; second, preserve a suitable temperature in the soil; third, stop weed-growth. What is called a "dust-mulch," maintained by frequent hoeing, is, perhaps, the best method, although, where the summers are warm, a covering in early July of long, "strawy," cow-, pig-, or horse-stable manure that will not heat, will also do the trick.
The lighter and more chaff-like portion should be removed in the spring and the richer part dug in. Peat-moss is even better than a manure-mulch, because the latter may encourage root-growth nearer the surface than is desirable. You can also trying using sawdust to cover the beds in summer. It certainly prevents the need for weeding and otherwise seemed beneficial. Another plan is to plant some low-growing and shallow-rooting ground-cover plant, like violas (pansies) or portulacas. These grow quickly from seed and should be established by mid-July.
PROTECTING FROM FROST. Where the temperature falls below freezing, the less hardy rose varieties should be partly covered, and all roses will be the better for some protection, at least about the roots. If you are visited with zero weather, let "preparedness" be your rule. To begin with, bank up the soil cone-shaped, with the apex 6 to 10 inches high around the stem of each bush. Ashes are sometimes used, but we know of nothing that is better than soil.
In very cold countries, the roses may be lifted entirely and buried in trenches for the winter, and they will come out in fine shape for replanting in spring. After you have drawn the soil nicely around them, leave them alone till the ground is frozen with a crust hard enough to bear the weight of a stone-laden wheelbarrow. By this time the moles and mice, or other creatures, will have secured their winter abodes elsewhere, and not be tempted to make nests in the protecting material you will next apply. Now do not smother your roses, or they may die. Cover them thoroughly, as high up as you attempt to protect them, but always allow for the circulation of air. A 3- or 4-inch blanket of good, heavy stable-manure will keep out much cold.
Protecting tree roses is very important. Pampas grass or eulalia or rye straw may be tied round the stems an inch thick, but the top and union of stem and top are the critical points. The branches, if pruned back a bit and tied up, leave a convenient shape to encase in material that will turn sun, wind, rain, snow, and ice. Try patent waterproof wrapping- paper for this. In severe climates roses are sometimes taken up and buried bodily in a trench in the vegetable-garden and then replaced in the spring.
FIGHTING INSECT ENEMIES. Eternal vigilance is the price of perfect flowers, because "prevention is better than cure." Vigorous, healthy plants are seldom troubled much. The two golden rules to remember are these: Keep sharp watch out for the first appearance of insect or fungous pests and adopt measures for destruction at once. Then persevere with the remedy adopted until a cure has been effected.
Cleanliness is very important. Keep your roses clean and healthy and that will go a long way toward making them vigorous and happy. The beginners need not be dismayed at the array of troubles that may happen; if they do, these hints are offered as a "first aid." As a matter of fact, not all the pests are likely to appear in the same garden. Rose-growing is not so complicated or difficult as might appear.
Among the insect enemies to the rose, about the earliest to appear is the rose aphis, which can easily be controlled by an application of "Black-Leaf 40" or whale-oil soap in solution, applied with a sprayer, and the sooner the better.
There follow the rose slugs, including the American rose slugs, bristly slug, and the coiled slug, so called, all of which can be overcome by the use of a solution of 1 ounce of arsenate of lead in 11/2 gallons of water. The rose-leaf roller may also be treated with the same spray and by hand-picking. The rose-leaf hopper may be controlled with the same treatment as the rose aphis.
Perhaps the worst enemy to roses is the rose chafer (or rose beetle or rose bug). The little chap avoids poisons. You may ensnare him by adding some glucose or molasses to arsenate of lead, to make it stick to the foliage and to make it more tempting to him. There are commercial preparations In the market that are effective. It is even worth while covering very valuable plants while blooming with mosquito netting.
For more tips and guides on growing roses, head to http://HowToGrowRoses.FunHowToBooks.com
Related Tags: rose, rose garden, grow roses
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