The Andaman Sea blankets the west coast of Thailand's isthmus, and is renowned for its stunning limestone karsts which jut out of the water like solitary guardians of a royal domain. The area around Railay Beach is arguably the best site along the coast to experience the majesty of these cliffs, and to add to the mystique there's an ancient cave at the tip of the cape known as the Princess Cave.

Situated at the very edge of the Tham Phra Nang headland, the Princess Cave has played an important role in the lives of local fishermen for generations. Although its true origins have been long lost to history, the cave is dedicated to an ancient fertility goddess. Inside are an impressive number of large phallic images which are adorned with flower garlands and incense in the hope of good fortune, prosperity and, of course, potency in bed. Though one energetic Swede insisted, "it didn't work for me."

Of course, Railay Beach is no secret. Ever since its discovery by beach seekers, it has emerged as a mecca for rock climbers, sea kayakers, the party crowd and just about everyone else who craves a unique beach experience. Since it's completely cut off from the mainland by sheer cliffs, the only way to get to Railay is by longtail boat. These boats leave from Krabi Town round the clock ferrying tourists on their 15-minute jaunt to the beach. Even though the Princess Cave is now more of a tourist attraction than a sacred place, local fishermen still pay homage at the shrine from time to time, especially during festivals.

The Princess Cave is just a 10-minute walk from Railay Beach East. After following a narrow trail through the jungle you emerge from the dense foliage into a stunning white beach with pleasantly few people. The cave itself is actually two caves: Outer Cave and Inner Cave. Outer Cave is high enough to walk through, and not very deep, so it takes a short time to explore. Make sure and wear clothes you don't care about, as Thai jungle mud is notorious.

The Inner Cave, which was recently discovered, takes a bit more effort and mud accumulation to explore, but worth it if you want to see the real innards of a limestone cave. A trail leads from Inner Cave to a small pool of water where you can rinse off that tenacious jungle mud. "The mud barely washed off my skin," one woman complained, "and I forget about my shorts and socks."

Although one visit to Princess Cave is enough to get the idea, the beach which fronts it make an excellent place to hang out if you tire of the crowds on bungalow-speckled Railay Beach East. For a hardy bit of exercise, a trail leads from the cave straight up to the top of the cliff, where those intrepid enough to put in the work will be rewarded with views that only the rock climbers and eagles can enjoy.

Every morning, longtail boats pull up to the beach to sell sandwiches, fresh fruit and cold drinks. "A lot cheaper lunch than plunking down 80 baht for fried rice on Railay," one German commented. These smiling women make a decent living and remove the necessity to trudge 10 minutes back to Railay if you need sustenance. If you're willing to pay enough, you can probably find someone to carry you back to your bungalow after a day of lying on the sand, proving that you don't have to be a sea princess to get the royal treatment.