Removing Linoleum Yourself
- Date: 2007-06-26 - Word Count: 627
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Are you thinking about removing linoleum in your home? It's not easy, but doable. Removing linoleum from your home can be quite a task, a lot of it depends on how old the linoleum is, and the kind of adhesive that was used to fasten it down. Sometimes, if it's solidly bound, and not cracking or heaving, people decide to leave it underneath whatever else they are laying down. Nonetheless, most home owners choose to start from scratch, and that means a lot of elbow grease, no matter which method of removal you decide on.
To start with, it's unlikely that you'll be able to just remove the linoleum and adhesive all at once. What's under the linoleum can be part of the problem, especially if it's wood. Concrete floors can withstand a lot more in the way of rough treatment, including the type of scraper you use. Most people will use paint scrapers, although scrapers with a razor blade are usually more efficient. Be ready to break some blades it if the adhesive is hard, and you're working on concrete.
Don't try to remove everything at once. Instead, try cutting the linoleum into strips or sections, and peeling them away. You should be able to remove most of the surface layer and a good portion of the linoleum backing. Using this method also makes it a lot easier to get at the underlying adhesive.
After the top layer is taken up and you're down to scraps, you have options for removing the adhesive. Chemical solvents such as Krud Kutter can be effective. Research these products and read the customer reviews. Follow the instructions on the product label carefully, and wear protective gloves and a mask. Work with a small area at a time and take a breath of fresh air before moving to the next.
Some home renovators have had success using boiling water to soften the adhesive. Working one section at a time, pour the water directly onto the backing and adhesive. Leave it to soak, and then scrape up the softened debris. Another option is to lay a folded towel over the adhesive, pour the boiling water, let it set and then begin scraping.
Direct heat is a great way to soften old linoleum adhesive. Find an inconspicuous area of flooring, and use a hair dryer and putty knife to scrape away the glue. On hardwood floors, you must push the scraper in the same direction as the natural grain of the wood, or you'll be left with a damaged floor. Keep a durable pan nearby to hold the scrapings, and be sure that it won't melt or burn if it comes in contact with the heat source or hot materials.
You may wish to move up to using a heat gun after you become comfortable with this process. If so, be careful not to overheat the wood and char it. You should also know that using this technique may allow some of the softened mastic to flow into the joints between the floorboards. Keeping the heated area small, constantly moving the heat source and scraping as quickly as possible will all help improve the outcome.
Bear in mind that this trick will never remove all of the old adhesive. Trying to scrape up all the old adhesive is likely to damage the wood. Scrape up the amount that will come up readily, sweep and vacuum, and consider your next step. In some cases a gentle sanding may be best. In other cases you may be able to scrub enough of the residue off with rags dampened with turpentine, mineral spirits or some similar solvent to get the floor ready to refinish. If you were going to apply a new covering that required new mastic, seal the wood and go ahead.
To start with, it's unlikely that you'll be able to just remove the linoleum and adhesive all at once. What's under the linoleum can be part of the problem, especially if it's wood. Concrete floors can withstand a lot more in the way of rough treatment, including the type of scraper you use. Most people will use paint scrapers, although scrapers with a razor blade are usually more efficient. Be ready to break some blades it if the adhesive is hard, and you're working on concrete.
Don't try to remove everything at once. Instead, try cutting the linoleum into strips or sections, and peeling them away. You should be able to remove most of the surface layer and a good portion of the linoleum backing. Using this method also makes it a lot easier to get at the underlying adhesive.
After the top layer is taken up and you're down to scraps, you have options for removing the adhesive. Chemical solvents such as Krud Kutter can be effective. Research these products and read the customer reviews. Follow the instructions on the product label carefully, and wear protective gloves and a mask. Work with a small area at a time and take a breath of fresh air before moving to the next.
Some home renovators have had success using boiling water to soften the adhesive. Working one section at a time, pour the water directly onto the backing and adhesive. Leave it to soak, and then scrape up the softened debris. Another option is to lay a folded towel over the adhesive, pour the boiling water, let it set and then begin scraping.
Direct heat is a great way to soften old linoleum adhesive. Find an inconspicuous area of flooring, and use a hair dryer and putty knife to scrape away the glue. On hardwood floors, you must push the scraper in the same direction as the natural grain of the wood, or you'll be left with a damaged floor. Keep a durable pan nearby to hold the scrapings, and be sure that it won't melt or burn if it comes in contact with the heat source or hot materials.
You may wish to move up to using a heat gun after you become comfortable with this process. If so, be careful not to overheat the wood and char it. You should also know that using this technique may allow some of the softened mastic to flow into the joints between the floorboards. Keeping the heated area small, constantly moving the heat source and scraping as quickly as possible will all help improve the outcome.
Bear in mind that this trick will never remove all of the old adhesive. Trying to scrape up all the old adhesive is likely to damage the wood. Scrape up the amount that will come up readily, sweep and vacuum, and consider your next step. In some cases a gentle sanding may be best. In other cases you may be able to scrub enough of the residue off with rags dampened with turpentine, mineral spirits or some similar solvent to get the floor ready to refinish. If you were going to apply a new covering that required new mastic, seal the wood and go ahead.
Related Tags: home improvement, home, family, floor, flooring, renovating, home improvements, diy, floors, renovation, home and family, home renovations, renovations, home & family
Author Ramona Mackgil loves being a columnist for numerous well-known online magazines, on home builder and lowes home improvement issues.Feel free to grab a unique version of this article from the Uber floor article directory Your Article Search Directory : Find in Articles
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