Our group arrived in Puerto Maldonado after the flight from Cuzco. A short bus ride to the main jetty and then we boarded a motorized canoe for the journey ahead. For the next two days, home would be an eco-tourism lodge located on the Tambopata River within Tambopata Candamo Reserve.

After settling in to our bungalow, I was ready for some adventure. Off to meet up with our local guide and then a nature walk through the secondary rainforest. Light filtered through the dense canopy of trees as we made our way through the lush undergrowth that thrived in the heavily humid conditions.

Out came the binoculars and ornithology book so we could identify the varied birdlife. A tarantula hovered around his hole in the dirt and sounds of rainforest life were all around us. I saw a small furry creature scurry by my feet, perhaps a capybara? Rodents are big in South America!

After a good breakfast the next morning and a short boat ride further upriver, our guide led us on a 2 hour walk through the primary rainforest. He explained that many of the large species can be rare, shy, unpredictable and very difficult to see. The birds were easy to spot when we reached the clay licks. The macaws and other species of parrots and parakeets make their way to these salt deposits as it helps with their digestion.

We climbed into small canoes to paddle out on the lake for a closer look at the rainbow of colors high in the trees. Scarlet, red and green, red-bellied and many more; all flapping their wings and talking incessantly to each other. Butterflies in abundance; brilliant blues and some as big as the palm of my hand!

As the skies opened up and a torrent of rain teemed down, I started to think we had little chance of spotting a jaguar, then I could think of nothing except the piranha below in the murky water. Needless to say it was a fast paddle back to land before our canoe started taking in water!

The hike out was fantastic. By this stage we were completely drenched by the tropical downpour but fortunately cameras were protected in plastic bags in our packs. The trees towered above us, dark and mysterious with minimal light. The smells were amazing. Deep breaths; a chance to fill the lungs with this magical air. I couldn't wipe the grin from my face, even though I was trying not to fall over in the mud.

As hard as I looked, the elusive jaguar was not to be seen. We had all strained our eyes in search of large sleeping cats with limbs outstretched and tails resting against tree trunks. They hid from us, but fortunately our efforts that day would not go unrewarded. Back at camp and in a dry change of clothes, after dinner we headed out for some caiman spotting and couldn't believe our luck. Near these small alligators in the muddy river, lounging by the water's edge was a cat in all its glory. It was more than a little camera shy and made a quick escape into the river as we approached... but what a brilliant experience!