EXCEPTIONAL CARP BAITS AND RIGS -- Milk Protein Bait and Rig Methods
- Date: 2007-02-09 - Word Count: 860
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* Using milk proteins as pastes instead of boilies, is the most efficient method of delivering these type of baits' "carp come and eat me" signals!
There is no damaging heating of the proteins in the boiling process and no coagulated protein barrier on the surface of dough or paste baits to affect and slow down attractors, smells and carp feeding triggering amino acids leaking-off.
This affects all coagulated egg skinned ‘boilies!' There are many ways to avoid or reduce this effect. (Like using a binder other than ‘conventional' eggs.) Or like ‘skinning' the baits for e.g. a maximum of 10 seconds.
Or by combining the use of ‘skinned' ‘boilie' baits and air-dried dough paste baits as free baits on the hook, or in poly vinyl acetate or ‘PVA' water-soluble bags attached to your hook rig.
I like to use a more selective ‘method', by using fresh paste, plus air-dried paste baits (previously soaked in liquid extracts, molasses, corn steep liquor, etc) placed in a ‘PVA' water-soluble bag, filled with hemp oil. This leaves a small flat spot on the water surface to feed more paste baits very accurately to, creating a fantastic fish drawing ‘hotspot', which carp are drawn to very quickly.
For a very unusual method, try wrapping your hook baits in MORE than one type of base mix paste, how about 3! A carp may prefer one to another, but has NO choice but to pick it all up.
How about this unique ‘heavy running lead method,' using a 6 inch ‘back-stop' on the line behind the lead, to drive the hook point home? This very special rig really hooks big fish, by getting the hook into the mouth undetected: It is awesome!
First make a hook rig with 2 looped ‘hairs.' One is attached to the back of the hook, just below the eye, the other comes off the back of the bend. These hairs are very fine and made from 5 pound monofilament. They are 3 or more centimeters long, from the hook to the end of the loops.
The hook is a ‘tempered' especially strong one. With a long curved point and wide ‘gape.' The gape is the distance between the hook point and the shank of the hook. I find wide gape hooks seem to hook very well and I invariably use a size 4 hook for this type of rig.
Actually hand select hooks from the boxes or packets, rejecting the ones with the shorter points, or blunt points. Use a ‘Fox' diamond hook sharpener or similar, to sharpen the hooks selected, past needle sharpness.
(I do exactly the same for my sea fishing hooks, as I know I'm hooking 3 times more fish and retaining far more fish that would otherwise ‘wriggle and twist' off the hook in the currents and waves.)
This effort produced 15 ‘forties' pretty much ‘on the trot' for me on a water in the UK and many big ‘thirties' from more difficult lakes.
Please note though, ONLY severely sharpen the last 3 millimeters of each hook point. I have sharpened more than this length and lost a number of forties or bigger at the landing net, as a result of the hook point ‘bending-out' under pressure!!! (But would these fish have been hooked initially, if it was not for this extreme sharpening?!)
Specially made tiny homemade boilies of only 6 millimeters diameter, are threaded onto the hairs so there are 6 on each hair. These boilies are made from milk protein ingredients and have been just scalded and then left to harden for a few days.
When you are actually fishing, around each whole end rig, mould fresh milk protein dough, so it covers each hair and hook to ABOVE the hook eye by about a centimeter or more, leaving the hairs positioned off the back of the hook and the wide gape hook point ‘proud.' I even glue 1 or 2 tiny beads above the hook, to hold the extra dough above the hook eye.
It is just fantastic for big wary carp; they take the whole soft melting lot into their mouths, have NEVER dealt with a rig quite like this very much before, and bang - they are hooked! It is interesting to note that most of the big fish from the ‘hard
fished' lakes were hooked perfectly deep in the mouth ‘scissors.'
I love to use this kind of ‘sneaky' edge, the results are outstanding and proven for me over many years and came as a result of trying to hook difficult feeding winter fish that would just ‘sit' over the bait and not move off! With a free running lead and a back stop the fish cannot use the lead as a ‘pivot' as much in order to ‘twist and shake' themselves off your hook!
The author has many more fishing and bait ‘edges' up his sleeve. Every single one can have a huge impact on catches. (Warning: This article is protected by copyright, but reprints with a link are OK.)
By Tim Richardson. ‘The thinking angler's fishing author and expert bait making guru.'
For the expert acclaimed and massive new unique bait making ‘bible' ebook and book:
"BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!" SEE:
http://www.baitbigfish.com
There is no damaging heating of the proteins in the boiling process and no coagulated protein barrier on the surface of dough or paste baits to affect and slow down attractors, smells and carp feeding triggering amino acids leaking-off.
This affects all coagulated egg skinned ‘boilies!' There are many ways to avoid or reduce this effect. (Like using a binder other than ‘conventional' eggs.) Or like ‘skinning' the baits for e.g. a maximum of 10 seconds.
Or by combining the use of ‘skinned' ‘boilie' baits and air-dried dough paste baits as free baits on the hook, or in poly vinyl acetate or ‘PVA' water-soluble bags attached to your hook rig.
I like to use a more selective ‘method', by using fresh paste, plus air-dried paste baits (previously soaked in liquid extracts, molasses, corn steep liquor, etc) placed in a ‘PVA' water-soluble bag, filled with hemp oil. This leaves a small flat spot on the water surface to feed more paste baits very accurately to, creating a fantastic fish drawing ‘hotspot', which carp are drawn to very quickly.
For a very unusual method, try wrapping your hook baits in MORE than one type of base mix paste, how about 3! A carp may prefer one to another, but has NO choice but to pick it all up.
How about this unique ‘heavy running lead method,' using a 6 inch ‘back-stop' on the line behind the lead, to drive the hook point home? This very special rig really hooks big fish, by getting the hook into the mouth undetected: It is awesome!
First make a hook rig with 2 looped ‘hairs.' One is attached to the back of the hook, just below the eye, the other comes off the back of the bend. These hairs are very fine and made from 5 pound monofilament. They are 3 or more centimeters long, from the hook to the end of the loops.
The hook is a ‘tempered' especially strong one. With a long curved point and wide ‘gape.' The gape is the distance between the hook point and the shank of the hook. I find wide gape hooks seem to hook very well and I invariably use a size 4 hook for this type of rig.
Actually hand select hooks from the boxes or packets, rejecting the ones with the shorter points, or blunt points. Use a ‘Fox' diamond hook sharpener or similar, to sharpen the hooks selected, past needle sharpness.
(I do exactly the same for my sea fishing hooks, as I know I'm hooking 3 times more fish and retaining far more fish that would otherwise ‘wriggle and twist' off the hook in the currents and waves.)
This effort produced 15 ‘forties' pretty much ‘on the trot' for me on a water in the UK and many big ‘thirties' from more difficult lakes.
Please note though, ONLY severely sharpen the last 3 millimeters of each hook point. I have sharpened more than this length and lost a number of forties or bigger at the landing net, as a result of the hook point ‘bending-out' under pressure!!! (But would these fish have been hooked initially, if it was not for this extreme sharpening?!)
Specially made tiny homemade boilies of only 6 millimeters diameter, are threaded onto the hairs so there are 6 on each hair. These boilies are made from milk protein ingredients and have been just scalded and then left to harden for a few days.
When you are actually fishing, around each whole end rig, mould fresh milk protein dough, so it covers each hair and hook to ABOVE the hook eye by about a centimeter or more, leaving the hairs positioned off the back of the hook and the wide gape hook point ‘proud.' I even glue 1 or 2 tiny beads above the hook, to hold the extra dough above the hook eye.
It is just fantastic for big wary carp; they take the whole soft melting lot into their mouths, have NEVER dealt with a rig quite like this very much before, and bang - they are hooked! It is interesting to note that most of the big fish from the ‘hard
fished' lakes were hooked perfectly deep in the mouth ‘scissors.'
I love to use this kind of ‘sneaky' edge, the results are outstanding and proven for me over many years and came as a result of trying to hook difficult feeding winter fish that would just ‘sit' over the bait and not move off! With a free running lead and a back stop the fish cannot use the lead as a ‘pivot' as much in order to ‘twist and shake' themselves off your hook!
The author has many more fishing and bait ‘edges' up his sleeve. Every single one can have a huge impact on catches. (Warning: This article is protected by copyright, but reprints with a link are OK.)
By Tim Richardson. ‘The thinking angler's fishing author and expert bait making guru.'
For the expert acclaimed and massive new unique bait making ‘bible' ebook and book:
"BIG CARP BAIT SECRETS!" SEE:
http://www.baitbigfish.com
Related Tags: books, hair, fish, homemade, ebooks, fishing, bait, protein, eggs, proteins, egg, baits, carp, catfish, dough, boilie, boilies, hook, extracts, rig, hemp, binder, molasses
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